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Graffiti Reigns: I HATE MY COLLECTION. John Galliano is a Bastard

I Hate My Collection - 1st TEASER from Markus Nylaander on Vimeo.

Although the film itself has yet to be completed, Oleg Mitrofanov, director of the much anticipated fashion documentary “I hate my collection”, has released a teaser trailer for the hungry masses.

The documentary profiles Central St Martin’s school of art and design in London, which has produced some of the most influential names in fashion today and throughout history. Having roamed the halls of the historic campus includes John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Alexandar McQueen, Phoebe Philo, Matthew Williamson. Amazing, right? At most schools, bathroom graffiti is hateful and childish, but at St. Martins, students sarcastically ink “I Love John Galliano… Bless the bastard!” on the tile. Sounds like an amazing place to copy the ways your classmates dress, aye?

The documentary’s title is provocative and intriguing, which should draw many to the film. “The idea of the documentary’s title, “ i hate my collection” comes from a graffiti, from about 12 years ago, found in Saint Martin’s old building on Charing Cross road by Judith, probably in a toilet, that’s where all the graffiti used to be, well at least all the good ones” said the director. He searched for a year and a half trying to find a student who hated their graduation collection. Unfortunately (or fortunately) the worst he heard was “It’s ok” and “I don’t really like it.” If the design students of today have little criticisms about their own work, it looks like we have a lot to look forward to.

The clip teases interviews with Antonio Berardi, Manolo Blahnik and Anthony Price among many others. It promises to be a fascinating insight into the young lives and minds of todays fashion moguls and the icons of the future.

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Christophe Decarnin Leaves Balmain for Good

Christophe Decarnin has resigned from Balmain, a statement that was confirmed by the house earlier this morning. While Decarnin’s departure from the Parisian house may sadden many of his loyal fans whom have gladly spent thousands of dollars on ripped jeans and studded jackets, it shouldn’t come as a surprise. Rumors regarding Decarnin’s departure have swirled since Balmain’s Fall 2011 fashion show, where Decarnin was a no-show. After failing to take his bow at the end of the collection, the fashion world soon found out that Decarnin had taken a break from Balmain due to a nervous breakdown and was currently getting rest at a treatment facility. However, at the time, the house’s spokesman quickly dismissed any departure speculations. This morning’s brief statement confirming Decarnin’s resignation did not provide any details about the reasons for the split, nor did it name Decarnin’s successor.

The French designer, whose famous sparkly minis and rocker-inspired garb, garnered the brand a massive celebrity-cult following, turned Balmain into one of the world’s hottest and most popular labels. Having been named Balmain’s Creative Director since 2007, Decarnin took the house out of a slump after having hired and fired a series of designers for 2 consecutive years. According to the AP, Balmain CEO, Alain Hivelin has been quoted saying, “Decarnin contributed, along with the studio, the success of these past years.”

Wednesday’s super-brief statement did not discuss Decarnin’s future plans nor his mental health, which most believe have led to his departure. Unfortunately, this isn’t the first upsetting news the fashion world has received as of recent. Last month, Dior’s John Galliano was abruptly dismissed amid a scandalous video, in which he praised Adolf Hitler.

Carine Roitfeld is Big Apple Bound and Barneys’ New Guest Editor

C’est la vie Paris, Hello Big Apple-Carine Roitfeld, last ousted from French Vogue, will be seeing a whole lot of New York City in the next couple of months. Carine is set to attend New York Spring Fashion Week, front row royalty of course, and will team up with Barneys New York to serve as guest editor and stylist for the luxury retailer’s fall ad campaign, catalogue and mailers. Roitfeld has also been hired to style Barneys’ iconic windows, which will be revealed in September.

Roitfeld spoke to WWD about her upcoming career move. “It’s good to have a new life, because now I can do projects that I never dreamed before. She also spoke about her collaboration with Barneys, “It’s a new kind of project for me. For me…to be able to participate in this project with Barneys, and be visible during the next fashion week in New York is my dream come true…to a French girl, it’s a big, big dream.”

In addition to styling Barneys’ fall campaign, which will be shot by famed photographer, Mario Sorrenti, the former Paris Vogue Editor-in-Chief, will also function as a muse for the store. Sorrenti is also set to make a short film for Barneys featuring Roitfeld-where Carine will express her views on fashion and style.

Where will Roitfeld go next? Roitfeld spoke to WWD about the rumors and speculations regarding her future. “One day I am going to Dior with Riccardo Tisci, the next day I am going to Saint Laurent with Hedi Slimane.I don’t think it’s very nice for the designer at Saint Laurent, and it’s just rumors. What I know is that I now have my freedom and I will keep my freedom forever. I am very excited to have this freedom and to have projects like the one at Barneys.” As are we-to see how this collaboration turns out-perhaps some Parisian influence-oui oui.

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Is Haider Ackermann the Next Galliano?

If the fashion world held a popularity contest for the most sought after-up-and-coming designer, Haider Ackermann would take the winning prize. Not only has he been named one of the main contenders to replace John Galliano at Dior, but Karl Lagerfeld has said that Ackermann should be the one to replace him as Creative Director for Chanel when the Kaiser throws in the towel. That being said, all eyes were on Haider Ackermann as he presented his Fall 2011 Ready-To-Wear Collection for Paris Fashion Week.

While last season he forayed into bold color, Ackermann began his Fall 2011 show with pure black-satin coats that is. Soon enough, ivory hued trousers entered the picture, followed by a gorgeous combination of metallic jeweled tones. But Ackermann’s well-deserved popularity doesn’t just stem from his choice of brilliant color pairings-his artistic craftsmanship and ability to drape, twist, tuck and tailor leather, satin, silk and suede into beautiful coats, jackets and dresses makes Ackermann’s style unique and almost unprecedented.

Similar to his previous collection, Ackermann focused on the details that made each look undeniably his-cinching waists with wide belts, rolling sleeves past elbows, albeit this time with a more masculine attitude. The designer backstage said regarding the Ackermann girl, “Last season, she was letting herself go. Now she wants to be more reserved.” Reserved but not unnoticed, as Ackermann’s “girl” strutted around confidently in second-skin knits, which revealed a lot of leg , as well as cut-out jackets worn with metallic sapphire trousers-not a look for the typical wallflower.

And while Galliano’s departure may still be fresh and recent in some minds, because  fashion is the industry that never sleeps, insiders that have already been taking bets as to Ackermann being Galliano’s replacement, will only be more confident in their decision after viewing such an impressive collection.

For more information on Haider Ackermann: http://www.haiderackermann.be/

*Images provided by Style.com

Christian Dior Fall 2011 Signaled the End of a Theatrical Era

Not 2 weeks since Dior fired its designer, John Galliano for making anti-semetic remarks at a bar, Christian Dior presented its Fall 2011 Ready-To-Wear collection, and proved that Dior is not a one man show and will continue to flourish without the guidance of Galliano.

“The heart of the house of Dior, which beats remains unseen, is made up of its team and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and vision of Monsieur Dior. What you are seeing now, is the result of their immense work.” With these words, set in an elegant and somber tone, Christian Dior’s CEO, Sidney Toledano, addressed an emotionally charged room this past Friday before Christian Dior’s Fall 2011 show commenced.

Karlie Kloss furthered the drama in the already emotional-laden room as she emerged from behind the fake salon doors wearing a large brown flowing cape draped over her navy leather jacket, and midnight blue velvet britches which were neatly tucked under buckled boots. Unlike previous Christian Dior Shows were drama and theatrics reigned, Karlie’s flowing cape was as dramatic as it got. Instead, Dior’s models walked to a soft-tempered un-melodramatic tune and wore less stage-type makeup. This time around-the clothing took center stage as the show presented 63 different types of looks that showcased meticulous detail, extraordinary design and dazzling creations- and because its Dior-also included fashion favorites, Coco Rocha, Joan Smalls, Anja Rubic, Jac, and Arizona Muse.

Rich colors, and lush textures which included velour, satin, buttery leather, cashmere and croc (as seen on the coveted Dior handbags) made up the luxe collection that presented a semi-bohemian romantic-heroine. The latter part of the collection dissolved into evening wear pieces that were sheer, tiered and made with chiffon, tulle and lace.

As the show neared its finale, the crowd grew antsy knowing that Galliano would not be present to take his bow. Instead Dior orchestrated a gracious salute that involved the whole Dior team (seamstresses and craftsmen) coming out wearing white lab coats-a gathering that  duly received an emotive response filled with cheers and applause.

For more information on Christian Dior: http://www.dior.com

*Images provided by Style.com

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Balmain Fall 2011 Reveals Designer, Christophe Decarnin, Has Been in the Hospital

Only a week after Galliano’s shocking departure from Christian Dior, the fashion world is once again rocked to its core with devastating news. Minutes after Balmain’s Fall 2011 Collection came to a close, the crowd began looking at each other confused as they waited-much more than usual- for designer, Christophe Decarnin, to come out and give his bow. Decarnin was a no-show-and quickly enough the fashion industry learned that Balmain’s designer has reportedly been undergoing treatment for either depression or exhaustion at a hospital since January. The collection was designed by Melanie Ward (who replaced Emanuelle Alt after the latter was named EIC of Paris Vogue), who was supposedly collaborating with Decarnin on this Fall collection but ended up designing the whole line without Balmain’s main man.

Decarnin’s absence from Balmain’s Fall 2011 collection is evident by the lack of shredded denim and studs. Instead, Ward’s influence, shows up in a collection that is more polished-including structured leather blazers, polished trousers, and streamlined blouses, but still maintains its punk with the help of a couple of sliced tanks, metallic gold, black, silver and blue, and laced up boots. And even though Balmain’s new polished-rocker girl is more grown up, she is still ready to paint the town red in her gem-encrusted minidresses, embellished  mini-skirts, shimmery jumpsuits and golden trench-coats.

Ward’s influence also accounts for the loosened-up silhouettes, deeply cuffed and cropped pants, as well as for the bib-front tuxedo shirts. Less embroidered sparkle, more polish, and with the same amount of power, under Ward’s direction, Balmain’s new girl is refreshing and strong. While time and specifically, seasons, will only tell whether Ward can fully replace Decarnin-this collection is definitely a start.

For more information on Balmain: http://www.balmain.com/

Images provided by Style.com

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